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Bavayia | Eurydactylodes Agricolae | Phyllurus Platurus | Rhacodactylus Auriculatus | Rhacodactylus Ciliatus

     
  Rhacodactylus auriculatus

Rhacodactylus auriculatus
Common Name: Gargoyle Gecko
Scientific name: Rhacodactylus auriculatus

Size: My aurics generally are about the same size as my crested geckos lengthwise, though they tend to be bigger, structurally. Some of the older lines tend to be smaller, probably due to inbreeding. I have a few animals that are full grown and only like 40 grams, but the majority of my goyles top out around 50-60 grams.

Distribution: Gargoles are only found on the southern region of Grande Terre, which is on the main island of New Caledonia. This species is found closer to the ground than any other species of Rhacodactylus, Gargoyle geckos are generally found on the lower levels of tree trunks and scrub-vegetation. They can be considered semi-arboreal.

Description: The color and body pattern of this species is variable. There are three main patterns, striped, mottled, and pattern less. As for color the main colors prominent today are red, orange, white, black. In the wild they are usually black/brown and white.

Sexing: Sexing gargoyles is similar to cresteds, though a little tickier as sometimes females will also have slight buldges. Males develop large hemipenal bulges, enlarged cloacal spurs, and preanal pores. Female have a slight post-anal bulge. Gargoyles become sexually mature at about 12-16 months of age.

Longevity: Gargoyles are fairly long lived in captivity and are thought to live 15+ years.

Temperature: Gargoyles can be kept at the same temperatures as other Rhacodactylus, around 70-80 degrees. I also give my breeding females a slight hot spot that reaches 85 which they seem to enjoy, but I don't think it is completely necessary for successful breeding.

Rhacodactylus auriculatus
Diet: I feed my goyles Clarks Gecko Diet, CGD, and crickets. They are not as voracious with bugs as other Rhacs are and are typically pretty shy about eating them when you are watching. Insects should be dusted with a good calcium and vitamin/mineral supplement, I dust mine in a 50/50 mix of Minerall calcium powder and Rep-Cal Herptivite. My gargoyles seem to like the Clarks diet more than the CGD, but I provide both just as I like to provide variety to my geckos. I also occasionally feed my goyles pinkie mice.

Housing: A single adult can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium with a screen lid, I house my single adults in 20qt. Sterilite racks. A breeding pair can be kept in a 40 gallon or bigger aquarium, I house my breeding animals in pairs in 66qt Sterilite racks. I use paper towels as the substrate just because I have quite a few geckos and it is easier to keep things clean. Though peat moss or coco bark would be fine, and I mist the cage every evening for humidity. You should give your goyles large pieces of cork bark flats, tubes for climbing, as well as some vines. Live plants also make great additions to any gargoyle set-up, just make sure to get plants that won‘t break if the gecko jumps on them.

Breeding: Prior to the breeding season, I drop the temperature in the enclosure to the low 70's high 60's during the day and mid 60's at night for a couple of months. Reducing the photoperiod also helps, though I find dropping the temps alone seems to work by itself. I typically bring temps back up to normal in early March and then I usually start to see eggs in mid April. Gargolyes are typically a little less prolific as cresteds, mine usually lay 4-5 clutches a year.

Incubation: The eggs should be incubated in a container with moist vermiculite or perlite, I use a 1.1 ratio (substrate to water by weight) At a temperature of 72-80. There eggs are also slightly bigger than cresteds and more oval shaped. My eggs take about 70-90 to hatch.

Juvenile Care: I keep all my babies singly in small kritter keepers, on paper towel with egg cartons. I mist them once a day and feed them just like the adults just proportional to their size. Once they reach 12-15 grams I move them to med. Kritter keeper, then once they reach 20-25 grams I move them to a 20qt. where they stay until they are ready for breeding.
 
 
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